James Bond's Timepieces Have Become as Iconic as His Aston Martins and Martinis
April 14, 2025

James Bond's timepieces have become as iconic as his Aston Martins and martinis, with roots tracing back to Ian Fleming's original novels. Fleming himself wore a Rolex Explorer and explicitly wrote this preference into Bond's character, describing a "heavy Rolex Oyster Perpetual" as Bond's watch of choice. This personal connection helped establish Rolex as the original Bond timepiece, setting a standard for robust luxury that would define the character's taste in watches.
In the early films, Bond was inseparable from his Rolex Submariner. Sean Connery's 007 wore a Submariner ref. 6538 in "Dr. No" (1962), establishing the dive watch as an essential part of Bond's equipment. The ref. 6538, with its oversized crown and lack of crown guards, became known as the "Big Crown" Submariner and is now one of the most sought-after vintage Rolex models. The watch continued to appear throughout Connery's tenure and into George Lazenby's single outing in "On Her Majesty's Secret Service."
Roger Moore's era saw some diversification in Bond's watch collection. While he wore Rolexes in his earlier films, including a reference 5513 Submariner that famously featured a buzzsaw bezel in "Live and Let Die," his tenure also introduced digital watches from Hamilton and Seiko. The Seiko era, spanning several films in the late 1970s and early 1980s, reflected the quartz revolution's impact on the watch industry.
A significant change came in 1995 with "GoldenEye," when Pierce Brosnan's Bond switched to Omega. This transition was largely orchestrated by Jean-Claude Biver, then a driving force in the Swiss watch industry, who recognized the tremendous marketing potential in aligning Omega with 007. Biver's insight proved transformative for Omega, helping to revitalize the brand's global presence and cementing the Seamaster's status as a luxury sports watch icon. The switch wasn't merely a product placement decision; it reflected the real-life preference of Commander Bond's inspiration – the Royal Navy, which had historically issued Omega watches to its divers.
Daniel Craig's Bond continued the Omega tradition but with variations that showcased different models. His Casino Royale debut featured both the Seamaster Professional 300M and the Planet Ocean. In subsequent films, he wore various Seamaster models, including a vintage-inspired Seamaster 300 in "Spectre" and the titanium Seamaster Diver 300M in "No Time to Die," the latter designed with input from Craig himself.
While Rolex and Omega dominate Bond's horological history, other notable watches have made appearances. Timothy Dalton's Bond wore a TAG Heuer Professional Night-Dive in "The Living Daylights," while various Breitling models have been spotted in promotional materials and on Bond's wrist between scenes. Even the humble Gruen dress watch had its moment, appearing in early scenes of "Dr. No."
The evolution of Bond's watches mirrors both changing tastes in horology and the character's development. From Fleming's personal Rolex preference to Biver's strategic Omega partnership, each timepiece reflects its era while maintaining the core requirements of Bond's equipment: reliability, sophistication, and style.
Today, Bond's association with fine timepieces continues to influence watch enthusiasts and collectors. Limited editions of his movie watches regularly sell out, and vintage examples of his early Rolex Submariners command premium prices at auction. Whether diving in the Caribbean or attending a high-stakes poker game in Montenegro, 007's watches remain an essential part of his legendary status as cinema's most stylish secret agent.
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